How to Install and Set Up a One-Piece Wraparound Bridge

A one-piece wraparound bridge combines bridge and tailpiece functions in one component. Stud spacing, stud-head geometry, bridge angle, scale position, radius and the compensation contour therefore form one complete mechanical system.

A bridge that physically reaches both studs is not automatically compatible. Fixed compensation can work very accurately inside the geometry for which it was designed, but end screws cannot correct the wrong stud angle, scale position or string-set assumption.

Compatibility and Bridge Type

Scope of This Guide

This guide covers:

• Identifying the actual wraparound bridge type
• Checking studs, anchors and mounting geometry
• Removing and reinstalling a one-piece bridge
• Setting bridge height and action
• Establishing clean string witness points
• Adjusting overall intonation with two end screws
• Understanding fixed-compensation limits
• Diagnosing common alignment, action and intonation problems

This guide does not cover:

• Drilling new stud locations
• Installing anchors into an undrilled guitar
• Relocating an incorrectly positioned bridge
• Repairing damaged body holes
• Correcting major neck-angle or scale-position errors
• Fret leveling or structural neck work

Permanent drilling, anchor replacement and stud relocation should be carried out by an experienced guitar builder or repair technician.

Identify the Bridge Before Adjusting It

The term wraparound is used for several related but mechanically different designs.

Smooth Wraparound

The upper contact is nearly straight. The final speaking-length relationship is created mainly by:

• The angle of the installed bridge
• The position of the two studs
• Any overall movement provided by end screws

This design normally has the least built-in string-by-string compensation.

Fixed Compensated Wraparound

The upper string-contact surface includes a molded, cast or machined compensation pattern. Different strings contact the bridge at different longitudinal positions.

The contour is designed around a particular combination of:

• Stud angle
• Scale position
• String construction
• Typical string gauges
• Plain or wound third string

Lightning-Bolt-Style Bridge

The raised lightning-bar contour changes direction across the string set. Similar-looking versions can be intended for different string sets, stud angles or left- and right-handed use.

Individually Adjustable Wraparound

Each string has its own movable saddle. This provides more intonation range but adds:

• Saddle screws
• Retaining hardware
• More individual setup steps
• More opportunities for incorrect saddle order or orientation

Do not apply a fixed-compensation procedure blindly to an individually adjustable bridge.

A Wraparound Bridge Is Not a Stop Tailpiece

A stop tailpiece only anchors the strings behind a separate bridge.

A one-piece wraparound bridge performs both functions:

• String anchoring
• String support
• Bridge height
• Radius relationship
• Compensation
• Overall intonation adjustment where provided

The strings must therefore pass over the intended contact surface of the wraparound bridge. Installing or stringing it like a conventional stop tailpiece changes the mechanical system.

Compatibility Must Be Confirmed

Before ordering or installing a replacement bridge, check:

1. Stud-center spacing
2. Stud thread
3. Anchor thread
4. Stud-head diameter
5. Lower support-flange diameter
6. Bridge-to-stud interface width and depth
7. Available front-to-rear bridge movement
8. Existing stud angle
9. Scale position
10. Required bridge height
11. Fretboard and string radius
12. Overall string spacing
13. Intended string gauge and tuning
14. Plain or wound G string
15. Right- or left-handed orientation

Do not identify compatibility from guitar brand, country of manufacture or model year alone.

Stud Geometry and Mounting

Stud Spacing and Stud Thread Are Separate Questions

Two bridges can share the same nominal stud spacing while using incompatible:

• Stud threads
• Anchor threads
• Head shapes
• Support flanges
• Bridge-to-stud interface clearances

Likewise, two studs with the same thread can have different head geometry.

The replacement bridge must fit the upper stud geometry, while replacement studs must match the installed anchors exactly.

Never thread a metric stud into an imperial anchor or an imperial stud into a metric anchor because the diameters appear similar.

The Stud Angle Controls the Bridge Angle

View the guitar from directly above.

Compare the imaginary line between the two stud centers with a line perpendicular to the strings. The stud line may be:

• Nearly straight
• Moderately angled
• Strongly angled

That angle changes the effective nut-to-contact distance of all six strings.

A fixed compensation contour designed for a straight installation may not intonate correctly on a strongly angled installation. The two end screws can rotate and shift the bridge slightly, but they cannot redesign the contour between the strings.

Document and Inspect

Document the Existing Setup

Before removing the original bridge, photograph or record:

• Bridge orientation
• Bass- and treble-side stud height
• Bridge angle
• End-screw positions
• String path
• String gauge
• Tuning
• Action
• Outer-string alignment
• Existing stud and anchor type
• Distance from the nut to each stud center
• Existing intonation result

Take photographs from:

• Directly above
• Bass side
• Treble side
• Neck side
• Rear side
• Close to both studs

A perpendicular top view is especially useful when the bridge angle must be evaluated later.

Required Tools

Useful tools may include:

• Accurate electronic tuner
• Correct hex key for the end screws
• Wide flat stud-adjustment tool
• Digital caliper
• String-action ruler
• Radius gauge
• String winder
• String cutter
• Soft protective cloth
• Stable neck support
• Finish-safe protection
• Inspection light

Use tools that fit the hardware precisely.

Do not use:

• Pliers on plated stud heads
• A narrow screwdriver in a wide stud slot
• Locking pliers on the bridge
• An incorrect hex key
• Abrasive tools on the string-contact contour
• The bridge body as a lever

Protect the Guitar

A conventional wraparound bridge is often retained mainly by string tension. When the final string is removed, the bridge can fall from the studs.

Always:

• Support the bridge during string removal
• Protect the guitar top and pickup area
• Keep loose studs and screws organized
• Avoid dragging the bridge across the finish

Remove the Existing Bridge

1. Detune the strings gradually.
2. Hold the bridge while the tension decreases.
3. Remove or move the strings clear.
4. Lift the bridge vertically from both studs.
5. Store the original bridge and hardware safely.

Do not twist or pry the bridge against the guitar.

Resistance may indicate:

• Corrosion
• Bent studs
• Incompatible bridge-to-stud interface geometry
• Distorted bridge openings
• Excessive plating buildup
• Previous modification

Identify the cause before applying more force.

Inspect the Studs

Check both studs for:

• Bent shafts
• Damaged threads
• Rounded or damaged adjustment slots
• Corrosion
• Unequal support flanges
• Severe forward lean
• Excessive movement
• Incompatible replacement parts

A leaning or unstable stud changes:

• Bridge height
• Action
• Intonation
• Contact geometry
• String alignment

Inspect the Anchors

Check the body anchors for:

• Movement
• Lifting
• Tilting
• Cracked surrounding finish
• Damaged internal threads
• Corrosion
• Previous adhesive repair
• Oversized body holes
• Lost ground connection where applicable

A loose anchor requires repair. Tightening an intonation screw more strongly does not stabilize a moving anchor.

Existing Studs Can Often Remain

Existing studs may remain when they are:

• Secure
• Correctly spaced
• Compatible with the bridge-to-stud interface
• Straight
• Undamaged
• Adjustable
• Suitable in height
• Correctly matched to the anchors

Do not remove secure anchors without a clear reason. Anchor extraction can damage wood, finish, alignment and grounding.

Test-Fit and Install

Test-Fit the Replacement Bridge

Before installing strings, place the bridge onto the studs.

It should:

• Engage both studs without force
• Rest on both support flanges
• Move within the intended front-to-rear range
• Leave useful end-screw adjustment
• Remain clear of the pickup and guitar body
• Allow the correct string path

Do not use the bridge to push the studs sideways.

Bridge-to-Stud Clearance

The bridge-to-stud interface must provide enough clearance for final intonation movement.

The bridge must not be trapped so tightly that it cannot move, but it must not be so loose that it can:

• Lift excessively
• Rock unpredictably
• Escape the stud under normal tension
• Change action during playing

The correct relationship depends on the bridge and whether conventional or locking studs are used.

Install the Bridge in the Correct Orientation

On a conventional one-piece wraparound bridge:

• The string passages face the neck or pickup side.
• The strings pass through the bridge body.
• They wrap around the rear edge.
• They cross the compensated upper contact toward the nut.
• The overall intonation screws remain accessible from the rear.

Confirm that:

• The compensated string-contact surface faces upward.
• The bridge is not upside down.
• The bridge is not reversed to compensate for the wrong geometry.
• The end screws contact the intended stud surfaces.

Some designs use another string path. Follow the actual manufacturer's instructions where the bridge architecture differs.

Set an Initial Bridge Position

Begin with both end screws securely engaged and within the middle portion of their useful travel.

The bridge should:

• Remain seated on both studs
• Leave forward and rearward adjustment
• Sit behind the nominal scale line
• Follow the guitar's existing stud geometry
• Avoid contact with the pickup or body

Do not begin with either screw:

• Fully removed
• Barely engaged
• Hard against the stud
• Bottomed in its thread

Height, Radius and Alignment

Set the Initial Stud Height

Use the previous bridge height as a starting reference where appropriate.

Set the bass and treble studs to a conservative initial height. The bridge should provide enough action to avoid immediate severe fret contact while the setup is established.

Large height changes should be made with the strings substantially detensioned.

Turning loaded studs can damage:

• Stud slots
• Plating
• Threads
• Anchors
• Bridge support surfaces

Install the Intended String Set

Complete the setup with the actual string gauge and tuning intended for normal use.

Changing either later can change:

• Neck relief
• Action
• Compensation requirement
• Bridge angle
• Intonation
• Playing feel

A fixed-compensation bridge designed around a plain G may not provide the same result with a wound G. Unusual gauges and low tunings can also exceed the intended compensation range.

Establish Clean String Witness Points

After bringing the strings gradually to pitch, make sure each string leaves the bridge from the intended contact point.

Check for:

• Correct string centering
• No contact with an unintended rear edge
• No lateral slipping
• No damaged or burred contact surface
• Clear separation between the speaking length and the wrapped string section

Do not hammer, file or notch a finished string-contact contour unless the actual bridge is specifically supplied unfinished and the manufacturer requires slotting.

Recommended Setup Order

A reliable sequence is:

1. Install the intended strings.
2. Tune to pitch.
3. Stretch and stabilize the strings.
4. Check neck relief.
5. Set bridge height and action.
6. Check outer-string alignment.
7. Confirm the resulting string radius.
8. Set overall bridge intonation.
9. Recheck action and tuning.
10. Lock compatible locking studs only after the setup is complete.
11. Perform a full playing test.

Intonation should be one of the last adjustments because it changes when relief, action, string gauge or tuning changes.

Set Bridge Height and Action

The two studs normally control the bridge height.

• Raising both studs raises the complete bridge.
• Lowering both studs lowers it.
• Bass and treble sides can be set to different heights where required.

The bridge does not need to look perfectly level from side to side. It must create the correct resulting action and radius relationship.

Measure action from the top of the fret to the underside of the string. Use the same fret position consistently.

Do not use the bridge to compensate for an unsuitable neck condition. Check neck relief before finalizing action.

Check Radius and String Alignment

A fixed wraparound bridge has a built-in upper contour. The final string radius is influenced by:

• Bridge contour
• String diameters
• String contact geometry
• Bass- and treble-side stud height
• Neck relief
• Fretboard radius

Check the actual strings, not only the visible bridge surface.

Also inspect both outer strings along the complete fretboard. A bridge that is centered on the body can still produce poor edge clearance if the neck, nut or studs are misaligned.

Overall Intonation

Set Overall Intonation

On a bridge with two end-mounted screws, each screw changes the position of one end of the complete bridge.

Before adjusting:

• Use stable strings.
• Tune accurately.
• Set neck relief and action.
• Hold the guitar in a normal playing position where practical.

For each reference string:

1. Tune the open string.
2. Fret the note at the 12th fret with normal pressure.
3. Compare the fretted note with the correct octave.
4. Adjust the corresponding bridge end in a small increment.
5. Retune the open string.
6. Recheck the fretted note.

Fretted Note Is Sharp

The speaking length is too short. Move that side of the bridge farther from the nut.

Fretted Note Is Flat

The speaking length is too long. Move that side of the bridge toward the nut.

The direction in which the screw must be turned depends on the actual bridge design. Follow the bridge movement, not a universal clockwise rule.

Use the Outer Strings as Initial References

The low E and high E strings provide useful initial references for setting the two bridge ends.

However, final evaluation must include all six strings.

A fixed compensation contour distributes the relative string lengths across the bridge. The end screws can:

• Move the complete bridge rearward
• Move it forward
• Rotate it slightly

They cannot independently reposition the four middle-string contacts.

Fixed-Compensation Limits

Understand the Limits of Fixed Compensation

A fixed compensated bridge can work very accurately within the geometry and string range for which it was designed.

It may become unsuitable when:

• The stud angle differs from the intended geometry
• The bridge is mounted at the wrong scale position
• The string set uses an unusual core-to-wrap relationship
• A wound G replaces a plain G
• Very light or very heavy gauges are used
• The tuning changes substantially
• The action is unusually high
• The bridge contour has been damaged or modified

When the outer strings intonate but the middle strings remain consistently incorrect, do not keep forcing the end screws. Confirm the compensation type and guitar geometry.

Locking Studs

Conventional and Locking Studs

Conventional Studs

With conventional studs:

• String tension holds the bridge against the stud surfaces.
• Some forward lean may occur.
• The bridge may fall off during complete string removal.
• Height is adjusted directly through the studs.

Locking Studs

With compatible locking studs:

• Leave the locks released while setting action and intonation.
• Complete the setup first.
• Lock the bridge only after the correct position is established.
• Do not use the lock to draw incompatible parts together.
• Do not overtighten the locking head.

Locking and intonation are separate operations.

Troubleshooting and Final Checks

Common Problems

Bridge Will Not Fit Both Studs

Possible causes:

• Incorrect stud spacing
• Bent studs
• Incompatible bridge-to-stud interface geometry
• Misaligned anchors
• Wrong bridge model

Do not force the bridge into place.

Bridge Has No Intonation Travel

Possible causes:

• End screws started at the limit of their travel
• Wrong bridge orientation
• Incorrect scale position
• Wrong compensation type
• Incompatible stud-head geometry
• Bridge trapped tightly between stud surfaces

Low and High E Intonate, Middle Strings Do Not

Possible causes:

• Compensation contour does not match the stud angle
• Wrong plain- or wound-G version
• Unusual string set
• Bridge installed backward
• Damaged compensation contour

Action Is Too High at the Lowest Stud Position

Possible causes:

• Neck angle is unsuitable
• Bridge body is too tall
• Stud support geometry is incompatible
• Neck relief is excessive
• Replacement bridge is not dimensionally equivalent

Do not grind the bridge or studs as a first response.

Action Is Too Low at a Safe Stud Height

Possible causes:

• Bridge body is too low
• Neck angle is unsuitable
• Studs or anchors are recessed incorrectly
• Compensation contour is worn or modified

Bridge Leans Excessively

Possible causes:

• Loose or leaning studs
• Excessive clearance at the bridge-to-stud interface
• Incompatible stud-head geometry
• Excessive forward force
• Damaged anchors

Strings Slip Sideways

Possible causes:

• Incorrect string spacing
• Insufficient contact definition
• Bridge not centered
• Neck or nut misalignment
• Damaged contact surface

When Professional Work Is Required

Stop and consult a qualified technician when:

• An anchor moves in the wood.
• The finish lifts around an anchor.
• A stud is bent or misaligned.
• The replacement bridge does not naturally fit both studs.
• The scale position appears incorrect.
• Correct action cannot be reached within safe stud adjustment.
• Intonation remains systematically wrong after the geometry is confirmed.
• Permanent drilling, filling or anchor extraction is required.

KMS Product-Specific Guidance

The KMS Whiptail is a one-piece compensated wraparound bridge with three compensation geometries for different stud-angle classes. Its product-specific selection, installation, KMS stud compatibility and adjustment procedure are covered separately:

Whiptail Installation and Setup: Stud Angle, Compensation and Intonation →

The general guide explains the bridge family. The Whiptail guide explains the exact KMS system.

Related Guides

• Whiptail Product Guide →
• How to Set Guitar Bridge Intonation →
• How to Determine Fretboard Radius →
• When Should Guitar Bridge Bushings Be Replaced? →

Manufacturer References

• PRS - About the Stoptail Bridges
• PRS - Adjusting Intonation