Whiptail Installation and Setup: Stud Angle, Compensation and Intonation

Whiptail is a compensated wraparound bridge that combines string anchoring, support, bridge height, fixed six-string compensation and two-screw overall intonation adjustment in one component.

Because the bridge and tailpiece functions are combined, stud position and bridge angle are part of the compensation system. The correct Whiptail version must therefore be selected from the actual guitar geometry before setup begins.

Compatibility and Whiptail Version

Scope of This Guide

This guide covers:

• Whiptail Classic
• Whiptail II
• Whiptail 50
• Choosing the correct compensation type
• Checking existing studs and anchors
• Installing the bridge on compatible studs
• Installing optional KMS Vintage Studs
• Setting bridge height and action
• Checking the fixed 12-inch radius
• Stringing the bridge
• Establishing the string witness points
• Adjusting overall intonation
• Using conventional or locking studs
• Routine care and troubleshooting

This guide does not cover:

• Drilling new stud locations
• Correcting an incorrectly positioned bridge
• Installing new anchors into an undrilled guitar
• Repairing damaged body holes
• Changing the scale length
• Major neck-angle correction
• Fret leveling
• Structural body or neck repair

Permanent drilling, anchor replacement or stud relocation should be carried out by an experienced guitar builder or repair technician.

The Whiptail Installation Architecture

Every Whiptail uses a one-piece CNC-machined 7075 aluminum body, fixed six-string compensation, a nominal 12-inch radius and two 6-32 end-mounted intonation screws. Current reference stud spacing is 82.55 mm / 3 1/4 in.

The three Whiptail versions differ in compensation geometry, not in the basic installation architecture. Finish, visual aging and optional Cryo do not change the setup procedure.

Why There Are Three Whiptail Versions

Different guitars position their two wraparound studs differently relative to the scale line.

The imaginary line connecting the centers of both studs may be:

• Almost perpendicular to the strings
• Moderately angled
• Strongly angled

This determines how the complete bridge sits across the guitar.

The bridge angle then changes the effective nut-to-contact distance of every string.

A fixed compensation pattern that works on a straight installation will not automatically work on a strongly angled installation.

Whiptail therefore uses three different compensation geometries.

Whiptail II

Designed for:

• Straight stud arrangements
• Very low mounting angles
• Stud lines approximately parallel with the bridge pickup
• Installations in which both stud centers sit at nearly the same scale position

Whiptail Classic

Designed for:

• Common angled wraparound installations
• Moderate bass-to-treble stud offset
• The common moderate stud-angle class found on many wraparound guitars

Whiptail 50

Designed for:

• Strongly angled stud arrangements
• Steep vintage-style mounting geometry
• Installations where the bass-side and treble-side studs have a pronounced difference in their distance from the nut

The three versions are not:

• Different quality levels
• Different materials
• Different radii
• Different levels of performance
• A chronological product hierarchy

They are three compensation geometries for three mounting-angle classes.

The Central Selection Principle

The guitar’s stud position determines the bridge angle.

The bridge angle determines the required compensation pattern.

The correct Whiptail version must be selected before installation.

The two intonation screws provide final adjustment.

They cannot transform one compensation type into another.

Do Not Choose by Guitar Model Alone

The same guitar family can contain different stud arrangements because of:

• Production period
• Factory
• Model revision
• Reissue specification
• Previous repair
• Replacement anchors
• Custom construction
• Manufacturing tolerance

A vintage-style instrument does not automatically require Whiptail 50.

A modern instrument does not automatically require Whiptail II.

Measure or document the actual guitar.

Identify the Stud Geometry

Determining the Existing Stud Angle

The most useful reference is the line connecting the centers of the two existing bridge studs.

View the guitar from directly above.

Compare the stud-center line with a line that is perpendicular to:

• The strings
• The guitar centerline
• The fret direction
• The nominal scale direction

A bridge pickup can be used as a visual clue only when it is known to sit square to the guitar’s scale line.

Do not use the outer edge of the existing bridge as the only reference.

An existing wraparound bridge may already have been rotated through its intonation screws.

A Practical Visual Classification

Nearly Straight

Both studs sit at approximately the same distance from the nut.

Typical version:

Whiptail II

Moderately Angled

The bass-side stud sits visibly farther from the nut than the treble-side stud, but the offset is not extreme.

Typical version:

Whiptail Classic

Strongly Angled

The bass-side stud sits substantially farther from the nut, creating a clearly steep bridge angle.

Typical version:

Whiptail 50

There is no universal guitar-industry millimeter threshold separating these three classes.

When the angle is unclear, use:

• A perpendicular top-view photograph
• A ruler or straightedge across the stud centers
• Nut-to-stud measurements on both sides
• A photograph of the original bridge in playing position

The compensation type should be confirmed before the bridge is ordered or modified.

Why the Wrong Type Cannot Be Corrected Completely

The two end screws move the bass and treble sides of the complete bridge.

They adjust the overall bridge position and angle.

They do not change the relative compensation contour between all six strings.

When the wrong Whiptail type is installed, it may be possible to set:

• The low E correctly
• The high E correctly

while the middle strings remain systematically inaccurate.

This is not necessarily an adjustment failure.

It can indicate that the bridge’s fixed compensation pattern does not match the guitar’s stud angle.

Fixed Compensation and Fine Adjustment

The Whiptail setup uses two compensation levels.

Fixed Six-String Compensation

The CNC-machined upper contact geometry establishes the relative speaking-length pattern across all six strings.

Two-Screw Fine Adjustment

The two 6-32 screws move the bass and treble ends relative to the studs.

This allows the complete bridge to be:

• Moved rearward
• Moved forward
• Rotated slightly
• Matched to the actual guitar and string set

The fixed profile performs the detailed six-string distribution.

The end screws perform the final bridge-level correction.

Document and Inspect

Before Installation

Document the existing guitar before removing the original bridge.

Photograph or record:

• Existing bridge angle
• Bass-side stud height
• Treble-side stud height
• Existing intonation-screw positions
• String path
• String gauge
• Tuning
• Action
• Outer-string alignment
• Existing stud type
• Existing anchor type
• Distance from each stud center to the nut
• Orientation of the original bridge

Take photographs from:

• Directly above
• Bass side
• Treble side
• Neck side
• Rear side
• Close to both studs
• Along the complete string path

A perpendicular top-view photograph is especially useful for selecting Classic, II or 50.

Required Tools

Useful tools can include:

• Accurate electronic tuner
• Correct hex key for the Whiptail intonation screws
• Wide flat stud-adjustment tool
• Suitable coin where approved
• Digital caliper
• String-action ruler
• Radius gauge
• String winder
• String cutter
• Soft protective cloth
• Stable neck support
• Finish-safe protection
• Inspection light

Use tools that fit the hardware properly.

Do not use:

• A narrow screwdriver in a wide stud slot
• Pliers on plated stud heads
• Locking pliers on the bridge
• An incorrect hex key
• Abrasive tools on the compensation contour
• The Whiptail body as a lever

Protect the Guitar

Place the guitar on a stable padded surface.

Support the neck.

Protect the area around:

• Bridge
• Pickup
• Studs
• Guitar top
• Control knobs
• Body edges

A conventional wraparound bridge is normally retained by string tension.

When the final string is removed, the bridge can fall from the studs and damage the guitar.

Always hold the bridge during complete string removal.

Confirm the Stud Spacing

Whiptail uses the common 3 1/4-inch reference:

82.55 mm center to center

Measure from:

• Center of bass-side stud
• To center of treble-side stud

Do not measure:

• Outside edge to outside edge
• Inside edge to inside edge
• Stud-head slot length
• Anchor diameter

A similar-looking bridge can use another spacing.

Do not force Whiptail onto studs that do not align naturally with both bridge-to-stud openings.

Studs and Anchors

Stud Thread and Bridge Fit Are Different Questions

The Whiptail bridge body engages the upper heads and support flanges of the studs.

The studs themselves thread into the anchors installed in the guitar body.

Common thread standards include:

• 5/16-24 for many US-style instruments
• M8 for many metric instruments

The statement that Whiptail fits common 5/16-24 and M8 studs refers to compatible wraparound stud-head geometry.

It does not mean:

• A 5/16-24 stud can be threaded into an M8 anchor.
• An M8 stud can be threaded into a 5/16-24 anchor.
• Every stud with either thread has the same head dimensions.
• Every guitar with one of these threads has 82.55 mm spacing.

The replacement stud thread must match the existing anchor exactly.

Existing Studs Can Often Remain

Existing studs may remain when they are:

• Mechanically secure
• Correctly spaced
• Compatible with the Whiptail bridge-to-stud interface
• Straight
• Undamaged
• Adjustable
• Suitable in height
• Matched to the existing anchors

Do not replace functioning anchors merely because the bridge is being replaced.

Anchor removal can damage:

• Finish
• Wood
• Hole geometry
• Ground connection
• Structural alignment

Inspect the Existing Studs

Check for:

• Bent shafts
• Damaged threads
• Rounded or damaged slots
• Corrosion
• Uneven flanges
• Excessive movement
• Severe forward lean
• Incorrect replacement parts
• Incompatible head geometry

A leaning stud can change:

• Bridge angle
• Action
• Intonation
• Mechanical contact
• String path

The bridge should not be used to conceal unstable mounting hardware.

Inspect the Anchors

Check for:

• Movement in the body
• Lifting
• Tilting
• Cracked finish
• Damaged internal threads
• Corrosion
• Previous adhesive repair
• Oversized holes
• Loss of ground connection where applicable

A loose anchor requires repair.

Tightening the Whiptail intonation screw more strongly is not a repair for a moving anchor.

KMS Vintage Studs

KMS offers compatible Vintage Stud options for wraparound and Stop Bar applications.

KMS Vintage Studs are available in two principal lengths.

Short Version

• Overall length: 1 7/16 inches
• Threaded length: approximately 7/8 inch / 22 mm

Long Version

• Overall length: 1 1/2 inches
• Threaded length: approximately 1 inch / 25 mm

The appropriate length depends on:

• Existing anchor depth
• Required bridge height
• Guitar construction
• Thread engagement
• Finish and top geometry

Do not select the longest stud automatically.

The stud must provide secure thread engagement without bottoming inside the anchor before the correct height is reached.

Confirm the Thread Before Installing KMS Studs

KMS stud versions can be offered for:

• 5/16-24 installations
• M8 installations

Confirm the actual guitar hardware.

Do not identify the thread from:

• Guitar brand alone
• Country of manufacture alone
• Stud-head appearance
• Approximate outside diameter

Use the confirmed product specification or measure the thread correctly.

Removing the Original Bridge

1. Document the original setup.
2. Loosen the strings gradually.
3. Hold the bridge as the tension decreases.
4. Remove the strings or move them clear.
5. Lift the bridge carefully from both studs.
6. Store the original bridge safely.

Do not twist the bridge against the guitar finish.

Removing Existing Studs

Stud replacement normally does not require anchor removal.

Before removing the studs:

• Measure their installed height.
• Count or measure visible thread where useful.
• Record bass and treble differences.
• Protect the guitar.

Remove each stud with a broad tool that fits the slot.

Do not use a narrow screwdriver that concentrates force into the plated edges.

Test-Fit and Install

Test-Fit the Whiptail

Before installing strings, place the Whiptail onto the studs.

The bridge should:

• Engage both studs without force
• Reach both lower support flanges
• Move vertically with the stud adjustment
• Have usable front-to-rear movement
• Remain securely within the bridge-to-stud openings
• Provide access to both intonation screws
• Remain clear of the pickup and guitar body

Do not use the bridge to push the studs sideways.

Bridge-to-Stud Clearance

The bridge-to-stud interface requires enough clearance to allow the final intonation adjustment.

The bridge must not be trapped so tightly between the stud head and lower flange that it cannot move.

It must also not be so loose that:

• It can lift excessively.
• It has severe vertical movement.
• It can escape the stud under normal string tension.
• The action changes unpredictably.

The appropriate relationship depends partly on whether conventional or locking studs are used.

Conventional Studs

With conventional studs:

• String tension holds the bridge against the studs.
• Some forward lean can occur under load.
• The bridge may fall off when all strings are removed.
• Height is adjusted by rotating the studs.

The final setup must remain stable under the actual string tension.

Locking Studs

Whiptail may also be used with suitable compatible locking studs.

Follow the stud manufacturer’s procedure.

In general:

• Leave the locking elements loose enough for height and intonation adjustment.
• Complete the action and intonation first.
• Lock the bridge only after the setup is established.
• Do not use the lock to force incompatible geometry together.
• Do not overtighten the locking head.

Locking and intonation are separate operations.

Bridge Orientation

Install Whiptail in its intended wraparound orientation.

The six string passages face toward the pickup and neck side of the guitar.

The strings pass through the bridge, travel around the rear and over the compensated upper contact toward the nut.

The two intonation screws remain accessible from the rear or tail side.

Before applying tension, confirm that:

• The compensation contour faces upward.
• The string passages align with the strings.
• Both bridge-to-stud openings engage the studs.
• The intonation screws face away from the neck.
• The Whiptail logo and visible finish orientation are correct.
• The bridge is not installed upside down or backward.

Do not reverse the bridge in an attempt to compensate for the wrong Whiptail type.

Prepare the Intonation Screws

Before stringing, place both 6-32 intonation screws within a usable initial range.

They should:

• Engage securely in the Whiptail body
• Reach the corresponding stud surfaces
• Leave forward and rearward adjustment
• Remain square to their threaded holes
• Turn freely without binding

Do not begin with either screw:

• Fully removed
• Barely engaged
• Forced hard against the stud
• Bottomed at the end of its thread

An additional intonation screw is supplied as a service spare.

Initial Bridge Position

Position the bridge so that:

• Both bridge-to-stud openings remain seated on the studs.
• The bridge is not at either end of its movement range.
• Both intonation screws have useful travel.
• The bridge angle follows the selected Whiptail type.
• The string contact point lies behind the nominal scale line.

The compensation screws should fine-tune the guitar.

They should not be required to correct a fundamentally incorrect bridge location.

Height, Stringing and Alignment

Setting the Initial Stud Height

Use the original bridge-height measurements as a starting point.

Set the bass and treble studs to a conservative initial height.

The bridge should provide:

• Sufficient fret clearance
• Secure stud engagement
• No body contact
• Comfortable initial action
• Enough room for later downward adjustment

Do not start with the bridge extremely low.

Final action is established only after:

• Intended strings are installed
• Neck relief is checked
• The bridge is tuned to pitch

Installing the Strings

Use the intended:

• String gauge
• Plain or wound third string
• Tuning
• Scale length

Route each string through its corresponding Whiptail passage.

Confirm that:

• The ball end seats fully.
• The string follows the intended wraparound path.
• The string does not cross another passage.
• The string does not scrape a sharp external edge.
• Each string reaches its corresponding compensation track.
• The outer strings remain aligned with the fretboard.

Bring the strings toward pitch gradually.

Protect the Bridge During Stringing

The loose string end can scratch:

• Nickel
• Aged nickel
• Gold
• DLC
• Guitar finish

Guide the string carefully around the bridge.

Do not drag the wound section laterally across the plated surface unnecessarily.

Establish the String Path

Each string should:

1. Seat at its ball-end location.
2. Pass through the intended bridge passage.
3. Wrap around the rear contour.
4. Travel over the compensated upper contact.
5. Continue in a straight path toward the nut.

The bridge should not create:

• String crossing
• Sideways saddle pressure
• Contact with the pickup
• Contact with a stud head
• A second unintended witness point

String Witness Points

After the strings are close to pitch, press each string gently into its intended path:

• Immediately behind the upper contact
• Immediately in front of the upper contact

This establishes a defined bend at the compensation point.

Use controlled pressure.

Do not:

• Hammer the string
• Cut a new groove
• File the bridge
• Deform the string-contact surface
• Force the string sideways

Retune afterward.

String Alignment

Inspect the low E and high E along the complete fretboard.

They should remain:

• Safely inside the fretboard edges
• Balanced relative to the neck
• Correctly positioned above the pickup
• Seated in the intended Whiptail contact paths

Whiptail does not provide independent lateral adjustment for every string.

Severe alignment problems can originate from:

• Neck alignment
• Stud location
• Nut spacing
• Incorrect bridge installation
• Incorrect guitar geometry

Do not file the compensation contour to correct a misaligned neck.

Check Neck Relief Before Final Height

Neck relief affects fret clearance through the complete neck.

An unsuitable neck condition can cause:

• High action
• Lower-fret buzz
• Middle-fret buzz
• Choking
• Misleading stud-height adjustment
• Poor intonation

The correct setup order is:

1. Install the intended strings.
2. Tune the guitar.
3. Stabilize the strings.
4. Check neck relief.
5. Correct the neck where required.
6. Set bridge height.
7. Set intonation.

Do not use the Whiptail height to compensate for a structurally unsuitable neck.

Setting Action

Whiptail action is adjusted by raising or lowering the two studs.

Bass-Side Stud

Controls the broad height of the low-string side.

Treble-Side Stud

Controls the broad height of the high-string side.

The two sides can be set differently.

The bridge does not need to appear visually horizontal relative to the guitar body.

It must produce the correct string action.

Reduce Tension Before Height Adjustment

Before turning either stud:

1. Measure the current action.
2. Detune the strings enough to reduce pressure.
3. Hold the bridge in position.
4. Turn the stud with a correctly fitting tool.
5. Make a small change.
6. Retune the guitar.
7. Recheck action and intonation.

Do not turn plated studs aggressively under full load.

This can damage:

• Stud slot
• Plating
• Threads
• Anchor
• Bridge contact surface

Measuring Action

Measure from:

• Top of the fret
• To underside of the string

The 12th fret is a common reference point.

Measure at least:

• Low E
• High E

The correct result depends on:

• Neck relief
• Fret condition
• String gauge
• Picking force
• Tuning
• Bending
• Player preference

Fixed 12-Inch Radius

Whiptail uses a fixed nominal 12-inch compensation and string-support radius.

It does not provide:

• Individual saddle-height screws
• Replaceable radius shims
• Adjustable saddles

The guitar must therefore be compatible with the resulting string curve.

The actual string-top radius can differ slightly because thicker strings sit differently from thinner strings.

Measure the strings themselves.

Fretboard Compatibility

A 12-inch bridge radius is directly suited to many Gibson-style fingerboards.

It can also work with some compound-radius or nearby-radius necks when:

• Bass and treble action are set appropriately
• Fretwork is suitable
• The playing style allows the resulting curve

It cannot be individually reshaped for every neck.

Do not file the compensation contour to create another radius.

When the guitar requires a substantially different bridge radius, Whiptail may not be the correct bridge for that instrument.

Bridge Lean

A conventional non-locking wraparound can lean slightly forward under string tension.

The degree of lean depends on:

• Stud-head clearance
• Stud condition
• Anchor stability
• Bridge fit
• Intonation-screw position
• String tension

Slight controlled lean is not automatically a defect.

Severe or unstable lean should be investigated.

It can change:

• Action
• Intonation
• Contact
• Playing feel

Compatible locking studs can reduce unwanted bridge movement, but they do not correct loose anchors or bent posts.

Overall Intonation

The Whiptail Intonation Principle

Whiptail does not use six individually movable saddles.

The upper bridge geometry contains a fixed compensation pattern for all six strings.

The two end-mounted screws then adjust:

• Overall bass-side speaking length
• Overall treble-side speaking length
• Fine bridge angle
• Final relationship with the guitar’s stud position

The setup is therefore performed across the complete string set.

Prepare for Intonation

Set final intonation only after:

• The correct Whiptail type is installed.
• The intended strings are installed.
• Strings have stabilized.
• The guitar is at the intended tuning.
• Neck relief is correct.
• Action is established.
• Both studs are stable.
• String witness points are defined.
• The bridge is seated correctly.

Changing bridge height afterward can alter the intonation.

Use an Accurate Tuner

A strobe tuner or another accurate electronic tuner is recommended.

Hold the guitar in its normal playing position where practical.

Use consistent:

• Picking force
• Fretting pressure
• Tuner reference
• Playing position

Excessive fretting pressure can make the note appear sharper than it is during normal playing.

Reference Method

For each string:

1. Tune the open string accurately.
2. Check the 12th-fret harmonic as an octave reference.
3. Fret the note at the 12th fret with normal pressure.
4. Compare the fretted note with the intended octave.
5. Record whether it is sharp or flat.

The fretted note is essential.

Intonation compensates for the pitch increase created when the string is pressed toward the fret.

Begin with the Outer Strings

Use the outer strings to establish the broad bridge position.

A practical order is:

1. High E
2. Low E
3. High E again
4. Low E again
5. Remaining four strings

The treble and bass adjustments interact slightly because the bridge remains one component.

Repeated checking is normal.

Treble-Side Adjustment

Use the intonation screw at the high-E side to control the broad treble-side position.

Fretted High E Is Sharp

The speaking length is too short.

Move the treble side of the bridge away from the nut.

On the conventional Whiptail arrangement, advancing the rear screw against the stud moves that side rearward.

Fretted High E Is Flat

The speaking length is too long.

Move the treble side toward the nut.

Back the screw away in a controlled amount and allow the string tension to reseat the bridge toward the stud.

Retune after every change.

Bass-Side Adjustment

Use the low-E-side screw to control the broad bass-side position.

Fretted Low E Is Sharp

Move the bass side away from the nut.

Increase the rearward compensation on that side.

Fretted Low E Is Flat

Move the bass side toward the nut.

Reduce the rearward offset on that side.

Retune after every movement.

Observe the Bridge, Not Only the Screw Rotation

The useful setup variable is the actual bridge movement.

Confirm that:

• The screw remains engaged.
• The screw contacts the intended stud surface.
• The bridge moves in the expected direction.
• The bridge remains fully supported.
• The bridge-to-stud interface remains securely engaged.
• The screw does not bind.

Do not rely only on a memorized clockwise or counterclockwise rule.

The physical bridge movement is the controlling reference.

Reduce Tension for Larger Movements

For a small adjustment, normal tuning tension may provide the contact needed for the bridge to follow the screw.

For a larger adjustment:

• Detune the strings slightly.
• Move the screw in a controlled increment.
• Reseat the bridge.
• Retune.
• Recheck.

Do not force a loaded screw against a resistant or misaligned bridge.

The Screw Pushes - String Tension Returns

The rear intonation screw can push the corresponding bridge side away from the nut.

When the screw is backed out, string tension pulls the bridge forward toward the stud.

The screw does not pull the bridge forward actively.

When the bridge does not move after the screw is released, check for:

• Excessive stud friction
• Binding
• Locking stud still tightened
• Damaged bridge-to-stud opening
• Misaligned stud
• Contamination
• No remaining adjustment clearance

Do not strike the bridge to make it move.

Recheck All Six Strings

After the low E and high E are close:

1. Tune all strings.
2. Check every fretted octave.
3. Record the pattern.
4. Make only small end-screw corrections.
5. Retune the complete guitar.
6. Repeat.

The fixed compensation contour should provide the relative six-string compensation.

The end screws should position that ridge correctly on the guitar.

Interpreting the Six-String Pattern

All Strings Are Sharp

The complete bridge is too close to the nut.

Move both sides rearward.

All Strings Are Flat

The complete bridge is too far from the nut.

Move both sides forward.

Bass Strings Are Sharp, Treble Strings Are Correct

Increase rearward compensation on the bass side.

Treble Strings Are Sharp, Bass Strings Are Correct

Increase rearward compensation on the treble side.

Bass Strings Are Flat, Treble Strings Are Correct

Reduce rearward compensation on the bass side.

Treble Strings Are Flat, Bass Strings Are Correct

Reduce rearward compensation on the treble side.

Middle Strings Remain Incorrect

When the outer strings are correct but the middle strings show a consistent error, check:

• Correct Whiptail Classic, II or 50 version
• String gauge
• Plain or wound third string
• String condition
• Neck relief
• Action
• Fretting pressure
• Stud angle
• Scale position
• Bridge orientation

This pattern can indicate a mismatch between:

• Guitar’s mounting angle
• Whiptail’s fixed compensation contour

The end screws cannot independently reposition D, G, A or B.

Unusual String Sets

The fixed Whiptail compensation is designed for practical guitar-string applications.

Unusual configurations can require another compromise, including:

• Very heavy gauges
• Extreme alternate tunings
• Wound G strings
• Hybrid string sets
• Unusual scale lengths
• Very high action

Correct outer-string intonation does not guarantee perfect middle-string intonation with every possible string construction.

Evaluate the actual playing result across the fretboard.

Intonation Is a Practical Optimization

No conventional fixed-fret guitar can be perfectly intonated at every fret under every playing pressure.

The objective is:

• Accurate open tuning
• Useful octave agreement
• Balanced chord intonation
• Consistent playing result
• Best practical relationship across all six strings

Do not chase tuner fluctuations caused by:

• Unstable strings
• Excessive fretting pressure
• Pickup magnetic pull
• Poor fret condition
• String defects

Final Intonation Screw Check

After setup, confirm that both screws:

• Remain securely engaged
• Contact their studs correctly
• Are not excessively protruding
• Are not at the final thread
• Do not rattle
• Do not interfere with the player
• Leave the bridge securely captured

Do not overtighten either screw after correct intonation has been reached.

It is an adjustment screw, not a bridge-locking bolt.

Final Mechanical Check

Final Setup Checks

After action and intonation have been established, check the complete system.

Confirm:

• Both studs remain stable.
• Both anchors remain secure.
• The bridge remains fully seated.
• Both bridge-to-stud interfaces remain securely engaged.
• Both intonation screws remain engaged.
• The string balls remain seated.
• Every string follows the intended passage.
• The outer strings align with the fretboard.
• The compensation contour remains undamaged.
• The bridge clears the guitar body and pickup.
• The action remains stable after playing.

Pickup Height

Changing the bridge height changes the string-to-pickup distance.

After the action is finalized, check the pickup height.

Evaluate:

• Output balance
• Bass-to-treble balance
• Physical clearance
• Magnetic influence
• Hard-picking clearance
• String-bending clearance

Pickup adjustment belongs after bridge-height adjustment.

Care and Troubleshooting

String Change: One at a Time

Replacing one string at a time helps preserve:

• Bridge position
• Stud contact
• Intonation
• Action
• Orientation

This is useful when:

• The gauge remains unchanged.
• The tuning remains unchanged.
• Complete bridge cleaning is not required.

Removing All Strings

Complete string removal provides access for:

• Cleaning
• Inspection
• Stud replacement
• Bridge removal
• Finish maintenance

Before removing the final string:

• Hold the Whiptail.
• Protect the guitar top.
• Record its orientation.
• Record the intonation-screw positions.
• Prevent the bridge from falling.

With conventional studs, the bridge is not positively retained when string tension disappears.

Locking Studs During String Changes

A compatible locking-stud system can retain the bridge during string changes.

Before relying on it, confirm that:

• It is correctly installed.
• It is designed for a wraparound bridge.
• The bridge is fully captured.
• The locking parts are secure.
• The studs are not overtightened.

Follow the stud manufacturer’s service procedure.

Do Not Change Height While Locked

When locking studs are fitted:

1. Release the locking mechanism.
2. Reduce string tension.
3. Adjust the height through the intended lower stud component.
4. Retune and verify action.
5. Complete intonation.
6. Relock according to the stud instructions.

Do not use the locking cap as a height-adjustment wheel.

Material and Setup

The 7075 aluminum body and selected finish do not change the setup procedure. Correct compensation still requires the correct Whiptail type, stable studs, suitable strings, correct action and correct overall intonation.

Nickel Care

For standard nickel-plated Whiptails:

• Use a soft clean cloth.
• Remove sweat after playing.
• Avoid abrasive metal polish.
• Avoid steel wool.
• Keep string passages clean.
• Keep screw sockets free from residue.
• Dry the bridge before storage.

Nickel can develop:

• Reduced reflectivity
• Warm patina
• Polished contact areas
• Fine visual variation

This is not automatically functional damage.

Aged Nickel Care

Aged nickel is a controlled visual finish.

Avoid polishing it back to uniform brightness unless that change is deliberately intended.

Remove harmful deposits while preserving:

• Darkened recesses
• Soft reflection
• Controlled edge character
• Intended patina

Gold Care

For gold-plated versions:

• Use a very soft cloth.
• Avoid abrasive polish.
• Minimize repeated hard rubbing.
• Protect worn edges.
• Avoid aggressive chemicals.

Gold wear can expose supporting layers.

This may be cosmetic unless it affects a functional contact or develops into active corrosion.

DLC Care

Black DLC is a functional hard surface direction.

It remains vulnerable to:

• Sharp impact
• Incorrect tools
• Abrasive polish
• Edge chipping
• Deep scratching

Do not attempt to locally polish or refinish DLC.

Cryogenic Treatment

Cryogenic treatment is an optional material-conditioning stage.

It does not change:

• Installation
• Stud requirements
• Compensation type
• Radius
• Stringing procedure
• Maintenance requirements

The finish and mechanical system determine normal care.

Compensation Ridge Care

The six-string contact ridge is finished geometry.

Do not:

• File it
• Cut individual slots
• Deepen the string paths
• Round the contact edges
• Use abrasive cord
• Grind the top surface
• Attempt to convert one Whiptail type into another

A damaged compensation contour can change:

• Radius
• String spacing
• Speaking length
• String life
• Intonation

Consult KMS before modifying the string-contact geometry.

Intonation Screw Care

Inspect both screws periodically for:

• Secure engagement
• Straight alignment
• Damage
• Corrosion
• Contamination
• Rattling
• Loss of contact

Use the correct hex key.

Do not apply thread-locking compound unless explicitly approved.

The screws must remain adjustable.

Stud Care

Check for:

• Lean
• Movement
• Damaged slots
• Corrosion
• Thread wear
• Loose anchors
• Unequal seating
• Finish damage

Do not perform routine tightening under full string tension.

Inspect first.

Complete Playing Test

Test the guitar using:

• Open strings
• First-position chords
• Barre chords
• Single notes
• 12th-fret octaves
• Upper-register chords
• Light picking
• Hard picking
• String bends
• Vibrato
• Palm muting
• Clean and distorted sounds

Evaluate:

• Action
• Buzzing
• Choking
• Intonation
• String alignment
• Note separation
• Sustain
• Playing comfort
• Mechanical stability

A tuner measurement is important.

The final guitar must also work musically across the fretboard.

Common Troubleshooting

Whiptail Does Not Fit Both Studs

Check:

• Stud-center spacing
• Bent studs
• Stud lean
• Incompatible head geometry
• Incorrect bridge orientation
• Damaged bridge-to-stud opening
• Previous repair
• Misaligned anchors

Do not force the bridge onto the studs.

Bridge Fits the Studs, but Binds

Check:

• Distance between stud head and lower flange
• Plating build-up
• Stud-head shape
• Hook thickness
• Locking mechanism
• Stud alignment
• Contamination

The bridge must retain enough movement for final intonation.

Bridge Falls Off During String Changes

This is normal behavior with many conventional non-locking wraparound studs when all string tension is removed.

Prevent it by:

• Holding the bridge
• Replacing strings one at a time
• Supporting the bridge
• Using compatible locking studs

Do not allow the bridge to fall onto the guitar.

Bridge Leans Forward Excessively

Check:

• Stud-head clearance
• Stud wear
• Bent studs
• Loose anchors
• Excessive action height
• String tension
• Incompatible studs
• Locking-stud setup

Slight lean can occur with conventional wraparound hardware.

Unstable or severe lean requires inspection.

Action Is Too High at the Lowest Stud Position

Check:

• Neck relief
• Neck angle
• Fret condition
• Stud and anchor height
• Bridge compatibility
• Guitar geometry

Do not remove material from the underside of Whiptail.

The guitar may require professional neck-angle or mounting evaluation.

Action Is Too Low at a Secure Stud Height

Check:

• Neck relief
• Fret condition
• Stud length
• Thread engagement
• Anchor depth
• Bridge seating

Do not leave the studs with insufficient thread engagement merely to gain height.

Outer Strings Sit Too Close to the Fretboard Edge

Check:

• Neck alignment
• Nut spacing
• Stud position
• Bridge orientation
• Existing body geometry
• String path

Whiptail does not offer independent lateral saddle adjustment.

Do not file the compensation contour sideways.

Low E and High E Intonate, but Middle Strings Do Not

Check:

• Correct Whiptail II, Classic or 50 type
• Stud angle
• String gauge
• Plain or wound G
• Action
• String condition
• Scale geometry
• Fretting pressure

This is one of the clearest indicators of a possible compensation-type mismatch.

All Strings Are Sharp at the 12th Fret

Move the complete bridge rearward by advancing both intonation screws in small controlled increments.

Retune after every adjustment.

All Strings Are Flat at the 12th Fret

Reduce both intonation offsets so string tension can move the bridge toward the nut.

Retune and recheck.

One Side Will Not Move Forward

Check:

• Rear screw has been released
• Locking stud is loose
• Bridge is not binding
• Hook is clear
• Stud is straight
• String tension can reseat the bridge
• No contamination blocks movement

Do not hammer or pry the bridge.

Intonation Screw Rattles

Check:

• Thread engagement
• Contact with stud
• Screw damage
• Bridge position
• End of travel
• Incorrect replacement screw

Use the correct 6-32 KMS component.

Intonation Screw Reaches Its Limit

Check:

• Correct Whiptail type
• Bridge orientation
• Guitar scale position
• Stud angle
• String gauge
• Tuning
• Action

Do not install a longer random screw to compensate for incorrect geometry.

String Breaks at the Bridge

Inspect:

• Exact break point
• Compensation ridge
• String passage
• Burr or impact damage
• Plating damage
• String quality
• Excessive local bending
• Misrouted string

Do not file the bridge before locating the cause.

String Ball Does Not Seat Correctly

Check:

• Correct passage
• Debris
• Damaged ball end
• Twisted string
• Incorrect routing direction
• Finish build-up

Do not force the ball end with a sharp tool.

Bridge Produces Mechanical Noise

Check:

• Intonation screws
• Stud contact
• Loose anchors
• String ball seating
• Loose locking studs
• Pickup hardware
• Control hardware
• String contact behind the witness point

Locate the actual mechanical source.

Do not attribute every noise to aluminum.

Quick Installation and Setup Sequence

1. Confirm that the guitar uses a compensated-wraparound mounting system.
2. Measure the stud-center spacing.
3. Document the stud angle from directly above.
4. Select Whiptail II, Classic or 50.
5. Confirm the existing stud-head compatibility.
6. Confirm 5/16-24 or M8 thread where studs will be replaced.
7. Select the appropriate stud length.
8. Document the existing bridge height and intonation.
9. Protect the guitar.
10. Reduce string tension gradually.
11. Hold the original bridge during removal.
12. Inspect studs and anchors.
13. Replace studs only when required.
14. Test-fit Whiptail without force.
15. Confirm the correct bridge orientation.
16. Set both intonation screws within a useful initial range.
17. Set a conservative initial stud height.
18. Install the intended string set.
19. Confirm ball-end seating and string routing.
20. Tune the strings gradually.
21. Establish the string witness points.
22. Check neck relief.
23. Reduce tension and set bridge height.
24. Retune and measure action.
25. Confirm the resulting 12-inch radius relationship.
26. Check outer-string alignment.
27. Compare the high-E octave.
28. Adjust the treble-side screw.
29. Compare the low-E octave.
30. Adjust the bass-side screw.
31. Recheck both outer strings.
32. Check the four middle strings.
33. Confirm that the compensation type matches the result.
34. Finalize compatible locking studs where fitted.
35. Recheck action and intonation.
36. Recheck pickup height.
37. Perform a complete playing test.

Common Installation Mistakes

Avoid:

• Calling every compensated wraparound a Whiptail
• Choosing the version by guitar model alone
• Confusing Classic, II and 50 with quality levels
• Measuring the angle from the existing bridge edge only
• Ignoring the actual stud-center line
• Assuming every 5/16-24 or M8 stud has the same head
• Mixing M8 studs with 5/16-24 anchors
• Forcing the bridge onto incorrect spacing
• Replacing secure anchors unnecessarily
• Turning plated studs under full string tension
• Letting the bridge fall during string removal
• Installing the bridge backward
• Using the intonation screws as locking bolts
• Expecting two screws to correct the wrong compensation type
• Filing the fixed compensation contour
• Trying to change the 12-inch radius
• Setting intonation before neck relief and action
• Judging intonation only from the low E and high E
• Overtightening locking studs before final setup
• Using a random replacement intonation screw
• Treating a loose anchor as an intonation problem

When Professional Installation Is Recommended

Professional installation is advisable when:

• Stud spacing cannot be confirmed.
• The correct Whiptail type is unclear.
• Anchors move inside the body.
• Studs are bent or severely leaning.
• Existing anchors must be removed.
• The finish is fragile.
• The body holes are damaged.
• A ground connection requires repair.
• Correct action cannot be reached.
• Neck angle is unsuitable.
• Fretwork is uneven.
• The outer strings do not align with the neck.
• Intonation remains impossible with the correct setup.
• New stud positions would be required.
• Any operation requires unexplained force.

The Whiptail Setup Principle

Whiptail separates the essential setup roles.

Guitar Stud Position

Determines the installed bridge angle.

Whiptail Type

Provides the matching fixed compensation pattern.

Stud Height

Sets the overall action.

Two Intonation Screws

Set the final bass- and treble-side bridge position.

CNC-Machined Compensation Ridge

Creates the relative six-string speaking-length pattern.

Each function must be adjusted through the component intended for it.

Final Verification

Before considering the setup complete, verify:

• The selected Whiptail II, Classic or 50 geometry matches the actual stud-angle class.
• Both studs are stable, correctly threaded and properly engaged with the bridge.
• The bridge sits at the required height without binding or excessive movement.
• All strings leave the intended compensation ridge cleanly and remain correctly aligned over the fretboard.
• Both end screws retain secure thread engagement and useful adjustment reserve.
• Low E and high E provide a valid overall reference and the four middle strings follow the intended compensation pattern.
• Any locking studs are secured only after action and intonation are complete.

Retune and recheck all six strings after the final bridge-position adjustment.

Related Guides

• How to Set Guitar Bridge Intonation →
• How to Determine Fretboard Radius →
• Gibson-Style Bridge Mounting Systems →
• When Should Guitar Bridge Bushings Be Replaced? →
• 7075 Aluminum in Guitar Hardware →